Tuesday, April 17, 2012

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan



Map of Jordan at the Border

From Jerusalem to Amman

Today we crossed the border into the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan from the state of Israel. I though the crossing would be a littler faster than what it really was, from the first check point for exiting Israel then a entry check into Jordan with the whole checking process, taking facial pictures, too. From the border at Allenby Bridge Crossing, we rode to our first site in Jordan where we discussed the tel of Tell Dier Alla, which is ancient Pehel. Here we did our first horizon lookout in the land of the Moabites, which everything here is so much lusher and dare I say nicer to live in than in the west bank of the Holy River. Some classmates even found some interesting artifacts that will need to be researched and verified, it was really cool to be able to see them and what was funny is the tel is across the street from the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities. We had a wonderful overlook took at the Yarmuk Wadi where the British bombed the famous Great War rail bridge of the Turks in the early 1900s. Our tour guide then took us to a local tourist site of Umm Qais/ Gadara where we learned about how the Greeks/Romans made this city with the Cardo and Decanmos in opposite order and also we learned about the huge fountain and the octagonal agora for the rich people to gather and sell items, we also climbed up to the upper part of the theater and had the opportunity to have our photos taken with the local Jordanian school boys. Our last stop if the day was at this tel there we discussed the region and its geographic characteristics and how this was a perfect location for chariot battles. We also had the opportunity to see the street signs that were saying Syrian and Iraqi border. It would’ve been awesome to get some decent pictures of them specially the Iraq one for the entire event that has happened there the last two decades, but we didn’t due to time we had to be on our way to the Jordanian capital city of Amman. We got to the city and it was quite beautiful and also modern looking. Though there wasn’t much city planning this city had much to offer for any Arab or Western. Even the hotel where we stayed at for the night was incredible. I felt like royalty for that short time - the food, the hot shower, and flush bed with cable television. Though I don’t really miss TV that much, it’s the news and the movies that I do miss. So I’m watching BBC World News while typing my impression report with my feet up after walking around a good chunk of the city center trying to find the Starbucks for some souvenirs with a group who wanted Jordanian coffee mugs. On the walk I was shocked and kind of sadden to see so many Western influences in this little kingdom  - from Burger King to Papa johns, and many more that the natives are probably wanting but for us Americans we kind of came this way to get away fro it all. Though once awhile something’s from home are good, just not always when your abroad. Tomorrow we will have our day around Amman and start heading our way south to get to our fun place, where the famous Indiana jones movie, made it so famous – Petra. I am quite excited to wear my kefiyyah and ride a horse or camel to the ancient crescent moon city after visiting a huge Roman city.

Starbucks in Amman
The city of Amman from the Citadel

Amman to Tyre of Tobias

Today, of our second day of the Jordan trip for Physical studies we first started at the Amman citadel. Here we learned of the horizon overlook and that the Amman basin is the smallest of the basins in Transjordan and also is the heartland being made of Senionian chalk. The citadel is an eastern oriented city with the gate and roads facing east to west. This city is considered to be two-thirds bigger than the city of Jerusalem. Today there are four lane highways running the length of the kingdom from north to south and also a good highway towards Baghdad. Unlike Jerusalem, Amman has huge plazas and wider roads. It’s the largest city in Jordan that has a massive Western-face – not historic. Amman is the city of Rabbah meaning, “be high” which is after the Mesopotamian goddess – who was the queen of the high. What was interesting in the city top was the feature of proto-Aeolic capitals the same as in Jerusalem, meaning a shared architecture in the Levant. We left Amman for the ancient Roman city, of the Decapolis’ – Jerash. This city is named the city of a thousand pillars that is totally right, there are lots of pillars still standing even after surviving a hard earthquake. The first arch we walked under is made in honor of the Roman emperor, Hadrian who visited the city in 128 AD for the whole year. There is also an 800-meter long Cardo street that is lined with pillars and every 200 meters is a forum. There is also a Byzantine church called Marianos, built in the city around 570 AD here the rich and powerful were buried right outside of the church, and inside there is a full mosaic floor with almost perfect quality. There is the famous circular forum, which is huge; the Greeks actually built it with the measurements being 90 meters by 80 meters.
Traveling on we stopped on the side of the road at Penuel, to discuss the wadi systems significance in the story of Jacob wresting the unknown man. I have a new understanding of what “held by the heel” means after the discussion on the slope of the wadi and seeing Dr. Wright wrestle Trevor as God/angel wrestled Jacob here in those ancient days. We drove some more down to the bottom of the wadi system to a unknown site at first, where we as a class used our deductive skills to find out what this site was without looking at the entrance sign. After awhile of climbing around and looking at he huge stones and unusually large windows with no real open center courtyard of the building, we were kind of stumped. We then got together and learned that this site; was the site of the Tobiah dynasty who for generations wanted and tried to claim the throne of the Judah, but failed. One of the key members of the family was quite ambitious and loved to party, kind of like a Herod the Great person. His family did not like him and so he made himself a fortress palace on a island in the wadi system. So when the rains came, the wadi would fill and making the island even more protected and it was still close enough to the watershed road that anyone looking down would see it but could do anything about it. The Tobiah man died alone from suicide, at the end.
Hadrain's Arch in Jerash

Petra

Today, I was looking forward to having a great Indiana Jones experience, which I did. Having an awesome experience for learning of the ancient civilization of the Nabataeans who had live and prospered in the southern Edom region of Transjordan, as a kind of anthropologist.  After hiking all over the mountains, canyons and valleys that make up the Petra area with and getting back to the hotel on a donkey, the group and I found out that Beatrice had fallen from a rocky ledge and had broken her leg and got multiple cuts and scraps. We all prayed for her wellbeing and for whatever God’s will to be done in from this event. Because of this terrible incident the group had lunch and just hung out at the hotel for a couple of hours till we got a call from our professor that we can come and pick him and some other students up from the hospital. While we headed north to our next hotel in Al-Karek and Beatrice with Lori went to the hospital in Amman. On the way to Karek, we learned about Petra and Nabataeans.
These tough people that lived in around the northern part of the Arabian Peninsula, 2200 years ago were people of great ingenuity and trading skills. The trade routes that they controlled went from the Middle East to Europe to the Far East in China. These people became very engaged in caravanning business that they became masters of the regions trade routes with the main exports being incense and spices, such as frankincense and myrrh. Though we don’t have any Chronicles of the Arab people until the writing of the Quran, we do have secondary sources that talk about the Nabataeans from Greek and Roman sources but the name Nabataea is not used. Nabataea is not mentioned in the Bible, but the Jews did know of it and there are some instances that may talk about it; such as King Herod mother and his wife. Also in Genesis, Isaiah, and even Matthew talk about the Arabian people in the south in a selective form.  This city-state became a kingdom in the first century AD then was soon annexed by the Roman Empire leading to its decline and death. Since we only went to Petra because of the medical emergency we didn’t have enough time to go to and learn about Bozrah, the capital of Edom. Once again we learned about the site while on the bus heading to Karek. The city of Bozrah was part of the Nabataeans in forming a kingdom before the Israelites, which was an excellent site for a capital. And it is mentioned in the Bible multiple times in: Ezekiel and Isaiah, it is also mentioned when King David marched his army to Edom and destroyed Bozrah and placing judgment on the inhabitants. The city was lost to time and was discovered in the 1970’s, today there are no primary sources that talk about the Edomites, just inscriptions from Israelites condemning the Edomites in a hateful way.  We are now staying at a hotel right next to the Crusader fortress of Karek. The room is sketchy and the food wasn’t up to par as the previous stops. My frustration was not having a decent shower to clean up after having a long hot and sweating day. Though I just have remembered that I am only here for one day, so it’s not that bad. Tomorrow is our last day of the field study in the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, and I am looking forward to come back to this really nice nation.
Standing in from of the famed Treasury Tomb

Petra



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